Constants through all these years

ANITA RAO KASHI / TNN / Jul 19, 2009, 09:33 IST

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Plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose. (The more things change, the more they remain the same) - Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr

Plus ca change, plus c'est la meme chose. (The more things change, the more they remain the same)
- Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr
You can always rely on the French to come up with terrific one-liners. Karr was a 19th century French critic, novelist and journalist. And anyone who knows journalists will know their penchant for satire and bitter wit. Yet, Karr's sentiment can be applied to Bangalore in the nicest possible way.
The changing face of Bangalore is a very touchy subject and people will go blue in the face arguing for, against and everything in between.But the fact is that some of Bangalore's constants are what give this city its character and make it what it is.

True, the city has much that is not okay, but that would make for a depressing picture, and depressing is not what Bangalore is.
In fact, its cosmopolitan nature is just what is responsible for the gung-ho, lets-do-it attitude. True-blue natives might not like it too much, but Bangalore has always had a history of being accommodative, of amalgamating peoples and cultures and turning it into a melting pot of rather interesting ingredients. On that rare occasion, the pot has boiled over, as pots are wont to do, but that has actually helped by letting off steam and bringing the city round very quickly back on an even keel. Perhaps no other city in India will citizens strive to make visitors more comfortable by attempting to speak in the language of the visitors; and nowhere else can non-natives happily settle down, and yet decades later, get away without knowing a single word of the native language. But Bangalore has always been large-hearted, focusing instead on the good it can get from all those who come here.

It is perhaps this very nature that has given rise to some of the most enduring and endearing institutions, that have catapulted Bangalore onto the national and global scene. Take the Indian Institute of Science for example. It is over a century old and still going incredibly strong. Established in 1909 by the pioneering vision of JN Tata, IISC is among the oldest scientific institutions in the country.
But better still, it has gained ground as a global excellence center and is placed among the best academic institutions in the world. The pleasant and soothing environs of the institute belie the fantastic cutting edge work that goes on in the institute- from eco-conservation to nanotechnology. All of which have earned accolades for both the scientists and the country.
Then there's the Indian Space Research Organisation, which created history of sorts with its recent moon mission Chandrayaan. That done, it is now heading towards putting a man in space and even on the moon. On the side, it continues with its core capabilities of developing satellites, launch vehicles and related activities.
A bit closer to the ground, the Hindustan Aeronautics Ltd. or HAL, one of Asia's largest aeronautics company, is constantly churning out machines to keep the country's air power on par with the best in the world. Over the years HAL has quietly become the backbone of the country defence system with such projects as the Advanced Light Helicopter and the Intermediate Jet Trainer, but the most notable contribution has been the indigenous design, development and manufacture of the Light Combat Aircraft (LCA), now called Tejas after its induction into the Air Force. In addition, it makes 20 types of aircraft including the MiG fighter aircraft, the Surya Kirans, Pushpak, Avro and Dornier airplanes.
But it's not just matters of the mind that have remained constant; Bangalore knows how to feed both the native and the visitor, and literally at that. Cuisines from all over the world rub shoulders with idli, dosa and butter chicken. However, for a more authentic Bangalore experience, people head to one of two places - MTR and Koshy's. Both are institutions like no other, and don't care two hoots for d��cor, polish or grandstanding. Food rules, and nother else matters.
At MTR, which could seem like a poky little place on first sight, the waiters are dressed in dhoti and complete strangers are forced to share tables to beat the overwhelming rush. There's not much variety to talk about either, and it's completely vegetarian. But whether it is the rava idli, dosa or the elaborate lunch, what is served is so delicious, and made with the best ingredients, especially pure ghee, in the most hygienic conditions. So much so that MTR is synonymous with the best South Indian food, and nearly 85 years after it was set up, it is stronger than ever.
At the other end of the spectrum, in the heart of Bangalore's happening downtown area, and equally timeless, Koshy's is a multi-cuisine restaurant effortlessly stradding a wide space from Kerala to Continental to Chinese and Korean. But it has been so much a part of Bangalore's landscape, that imagining the city without it is akin to blasphemy. It is the favourite haunt of the creative types and loners, and just about anybody else. More than half a century old, Koshy's is actually two restaurants - Parade Caf��, which retains the old world charm and ambience, and Jewel Box, which is more elegant and air conditioned. But it is the former that's always crammed. Its menu has undergone changes and many new dishes have come on board. But Continental dishes such as steaks, roast mutton and fish n chips, and Kerala food such as fish biriyani and fish curry rice are overriding faves. Not to mention of course the turkey meal and plum pudding at Christmas.
From food for the mind to food for the heart and soul, Bangalore's institutions are familiar landmarks in a city changing by the day. And the thing is, they are such enduring entities that no matter what is happening around them, they stand tall and thrive. No, they are not stubborn, stick in the mud varieties that hate change; it's just that Bangalore loves them just the way they are!

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